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Old 05/16/11, 08:55 PM   #1 (permalink)
Mykk (OP)
 
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Build & swap of a Gen I Chevy v8 into a newer generation Silverado

Hey Guys,

Here's a little write up of the engine build & swap into my Silverado.

Here's what I started with. A recently blown up Chevy 350 on the cheap:





Piston on cylinder #5:



The cylinder wall was slightly scuffed, and the block was already bored out .020" so I took it out to .040" overbore.



Craigslist find in a nearby city, a ZZ4 forged rotating assembly. I had balanced with a 4.3L dampener and L31 flexplate.





The H345NCP-40 pistons, that should have sat .025" in the cylinders actually sit .004" in the hole. The block was previously decked .020" without my knowledge.



This build just took a completely different turn, now that compression will be much higher than estimated.

LT4 hotcam, 218/228 duration @ .050", .525"/.525" with 1.6 rockers :



Geardrive and crankshaft position sensor reluctor wheel:



Vortec 906 heads, getting set up for 1.6 rockers and .525" lift











L31 Vortec fuel injection, updated GM spider & CFM-Tech oversized throttleody.









Engine Swap-

4.3L v6 removed:



3200rpm stall torque converter, Splicing the V8 plug & re-pinning the PCM





The trucks original V6 brackets & accessories on the V8:





To get a Gen I v8 to sit on the GMT800 frame without custom made parts or welding, I used GenIII truck motor mounts, frame mounts and an LSx to SBC adapter plates.













The first fire up, using a stock '02 G-van L31 tune



After extensive tuning, and trying different PCM's and operating systems. The engine never ran right with this fuel injection. So I decided to do something radical, more so than installing an old design V8 in a newer body style.

Going carbureted, installing a bigger cam & better heads too:



Patriot 'Vortec' heads, 64cc chambers, 2.02"/1.6" valves, 185cc Intake runners. Comp XR276HR-10 camshaft. 224/230 dur @ .050", .532"/540" with 1.6 rockers, 110 lobe sep, 106 Int centerline. Cam installed 4 degrees advanced















After frying a tire, I decided it was due time to install a locker:









After the locker, I installed a floor ratchet shifter:





Shortly after, I installed a fuel cell in the bed, a new exhaust system with new headers and new valve covers:





The engine currently specs out as:
86-95 four bolt main, roller cam 350 block. bored .040" over
ZZ4 forged rotating assembly, H345NCP-40 pistons sit .004" from deck
Patriot 'Vortec' heads, 2.02"/1.6" valves. 185cc Int runners, 64cc chambers. Comp 26918 beehive springs
.004" deck, .028" head gasket, 64cc chambers = 10.7:1 static compression
Comp XR276HR-10 camshaft, installed +4 degrees. 276/282 adv dur, .532"/.540" lift with 1.6 rockers. 110 lobe sep, 106 intake centerline.
Professional Products crosswind intake (RPM Air-Gap copy), 1" tapered 4 hole spacer. Mighty Demon 750cfm with annular boosters.
Summit billet distributor, 36 degrees mechanical max. 18 degree's initial, +10 degrees vacuum advance on manifold. MSD 6a ignition box.
Hedman long tubes, 2.5" pipe to Flowmaster Super 40's, 2.25" H-pipe, 3" tailpipes to dual 4" tips

495hp @ 6000rpm, 478tq @ 4500rpm







After working out a few bugs and some time tuning in the combo the truck/engine has ran an 11.7 @ 118mph 1/4 mile without NOS with the 22"s wheels, it's broke three transmissions and one ring & pinion.



Cheers ~Mykk

Last edited by Mykk on 05/21/11 at 07:40 AM
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Old 05/16/11, 09:02 PM   #2 (permalink)
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NICE!!!
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Old 05/16/11, 09:09 PM   #3 (permalink)
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11.7 all motor. Sounds fun. +hp
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Originally Posted by Yotaholic
A Supra will get you through times with no money better than money will get you through times with no Supra
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Old 05/16/11, 09:17 PM   #4 (permalink)
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nice build!
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Old 05/16/11, 09:18 PM   #5 (permalink)
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+HP! That truck looks slower than it is. Don't take that the wrong way lol.
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"The best engine in the world is the vagina, it takes any size piston, its self lubricating, starts with 1 finger, and every 4 weeks does an oil change. It's a pity the ECU is so damn temperamental."
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Old 05/16/11, 09:21 PM   #6 (permalink)
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fuck talk about a sleeper. wicked build
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Old 05/16/11, 09:25 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Nice work.. didn't expect such good pics, almost makes it look easy...
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Old 05/16/11, 09:26 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Thanks guys, it's not much of a sleeper. The truck looks & sounds on the street about you would expect with the drive train it has.

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Old 05/21/11, 07:08 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Rebuilding another transmission:









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Old 05/21/11, 07:21 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Your truck is sick bro very nice build.
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Old 05/22/11, 07:25 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Moving the fuel cell to behind the axle, should help the weight distribution. Hopefully aid in planting the rear tires when necessary. Soon I intend on making a set of long traction bars





Just waiting for the tank straps to arrive via Summit. I'm also looking to see if I could still realistically mount the mufflers behind the axle too, might not happen now

EDIT:

I managed to fit the cell length wise, so now the sump is in the back and everything is centered. I like this much better.





I may be able to fit the mufflers in the back between the cell and the leaf spring hanger. Some creative pipe work would be needed to clear the shock on the drivers side. I really don't want to run the exhaust under the axle, although that would be the most direct route. I've seen it done, but on a street driven truck that could be asking for trouble


Last edited by Mykk on 05/23/11 at 09:24 AM
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Old 05/27/11, 07:38 AM   #12 (permalink)
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The fuel cell is mounted, mostly. and I got it to sit the way I wanted. With the the sump to the rear and everything centered. Made a mounting frame to hand the cell from 1/8" aluminum angle stock. Mounted the fuel pressure regulator downstream of the carb.









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Old 05/27/11, 08:49 AM   #13 (permalink)
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With this set up, and the fuel cell a 1/4 full I was getting a strange fuel PSI fluctuation reading at the carb. I mounted the fuel pump closer to the ground, and it solved that problem.

I also decided to use the vacuum port on the Mallory 4309 pressure regulator. I dialed it in for 5psi at idle, as so not fight the needle & seats. 7-8psi for WOT for adequate fuel delivery, and it could go as low as 3psi while cruising and take a load off the fuel pump.




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Old 05/27/11, 11:05 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Sweet truck
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Old 05/27/11, 11:26 AM   #15 (permalink)
Ya'll better wreckonize.
 
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Sweet build and sick truck.
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